The Christmas countdown has started, and to avoid the usual last-minute fluster, I’m trying to plan ahead. Knowing what we’re going to eat next weekend and beyond means I can get some cooking done early. It also limits panic buys: every year, I never think we have enough food in, but there’s always way too much. I’m making this comforting and inexpensive Persian rice for Christmas Eve, most of which can be made ahead; and a light salad for the evening after the big lunch.

Persian rice with grilled squid, orange zest and crisp onions

This is the type of dish you can eat with a spoon while curled up in a heap or when celebrating around a crowded table. Serves four to six.

6 medium-sized squid
100g brown lentils
200g basmati rice, soaked for 1 hour
6 tbsp olive oil
2 small white onions, peeled and finely chopped
80g sultanas, soaked in boiling water for 10 minutes
1 tsp turmeric
1 stick cinnamon
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 100ml warm water

For the onions
150ml vegetable oil
2 white onions, peeled and finely sliced

For the dressing
1 orange
1 lemon
½ small bunch parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped
1 small bunch dill, finely chopped
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Cut down one side of each squid and open it out. Scrape out any gunk, then wash. Score the inside surface in a criss-cross pattern, but don’t cut all the way through, then refrigerate.

Warm the oil for the onions in a deep pan (or wok) on a medium-low heat, and sweat the onions, stirring often, for 30-40 minutes, until golden and crisp. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper.

Put the lentils and rice in separate small pans, cover both with water, season with salt and bring to a boil. Cook the rice for 10 minutes, drain and leave uncovered to steam dry. Let the lentils cook for 10-15 minutes longer, until just cooked, then drain and steam dry in the same way.

Warm half the olive oil in a casserole and sweat the chopped onions on medium heat for 10 minutes, until soft. Add the sultanas, turmeric and cinnamon, cook for five minutes, then stir into the lentils.

For the dressing, grate the orange and lemon zest into a bowl, then add the onion mix and the herbs. Cut off and discard the lemon pith, roughly chop the flesh, stir this into the salad mix, and season to taste. This can all be done ahead of time.

Just before serving, wipe clean the casserole, add the remaining oil and put on a medium heat. Spoon in half the rice in an even layer, then top with half the lentils, and repeat until both are used up. Poke holes all over the top layer of lentils, and pour the saffron water into the indents. Cover the pan with a clean tea towel and a lid, pulling the towel up and over the lid, to keep it away from the heat source, and cook on a medium heat for 25 minutes, until the bottom layer of rice is golden and crisp.

Five minutes before the rice is done, heat a griddle until smoking hot. Rub the squid in a little oil, salt and pepper, then lay it unscored side down on the griddle, pressing it flat with a fish slice. Cook for a minute a side, then cut into big chunks.

Spoon the rice and lentils on to a platter, scraping the bottom to get all those lovely crunchy bits. Scatter over the squid, spoon on the dressing and top with the onions. Serve hot.

Grilled pear and radicchio salad with blue cheese and tarragon dressing

Grilling gives the pears a lovely smokiness, while the dressing adds a sparkling acidity. Serves four to six.

1 small shallot, peeled and finely sliced
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
4 firm pears, cut lengthways into 2cm slices
50g blue cheese (gorgonzola or stilton)
Juice of 1 small lemon
2 tsp creme fraiche
2-3 sprigs tarragon, leaves picked and finely chopped
5 tbsp olive oil
300g radicchio, chicory and watercress leaves, washed and dried

For the nuts
75g shelled walnuts, roughly chopped
15g sugar
1 large pinch sweet pimentón
10g butter

Put the shallot and vinegar in a small bowl, stir and leave to macerate while you get on with the everything else.

Heat a griddle until smoking hot (or heat a grill to its highest setting), then grill the pear slices for two to three minutes a side, until lightly charred, but not cooking them so much that the fruit falls apart. Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, put the nuts, sugar, pimentón and butter in a small saucepan on a medium-high heat and cook, stirring, for five minutes until the butter and sugar have melted and coated the nuts. Tip out on to a plate covered in greaseproof paper, and separate the nuts a little, so they don’t stick together too much as they cool.

For the dressing, mash the cheese and lemon with a fork, until smoothish, stir in the creme fraiche and tarragon, then slowly whisk in the oil until emulsified and thick. Season to taste. Rip the leaves into random shapes and sizes, and arrange on a platter. Sit the pears on top, followed by the shallots. Break up the nuts with your hands, sprinkle all over the top, then spoon on the dressing and serve at once.

And for the rest of the week…

If, like me, you over-order blue cheese at Christmas, don’t worry. Beaten into an equal amount of mascarpone, it makes a glorious filling for mini cheese scones. Or add some to a rarebit mixture made with strong cheddar or Lincolnshire poacher, for the perfect simple and quick supper. Or use it up in a cheese soufflé. Whizz leftover tarragon with parsley to make a fast salsa verde. And sprinkle excess crisp onions on just about anything.