The recipe

Finely dice a small, red chilli. Roughly chop 80g of fresh raw peas. Boil 150g of fresh or frozen peas in deep, lightly salted water for 4-5 minutes then drain and put them in a blender or food processor and reduce to a roughly textured purée. Add the diced chilli to the purée. Cover and keep warm.

Gently warm 30g of butter and 2 tbsp of olive oil in a shallow, nonstick saucepan. When it starts to sizzle, lower two 200g pieces of cod or haddock into the pan and cook for 5-6 minutes until the underside is pale gold. Turn the pieces of fish over and cook the other side for a similar time. Lift the fish out of the pan to a warm plate and cover.

Wipe the pan, then pour in 150ml of double cream and heat gently, then add 50g of chopped fresh herbs – a mixture of two or three from dill, parsley, chives and mint – and a finely chopped spring onion. Season with salt and black pepper.

Divide the pea purée and the fish between two warm plates, pour over the warm herb cream sauce and then spoon over the chopped raw peas. Serves 2.

The trick

All about timing, this one. I get the peas and chilli chopped before I start to cook the fish, as you really need to keep a close eye on its progress and you may not have time later. A thick end from the fillet is ideal in this dish. Weigh the herbs, stems and all, then pick off the leaves and chop them. Throw the stems left over into your stockpot.

The twist

This midweek dinner is also gorgeous with salmon or trout, even though the sauce is creamy. If you are cooking these as alternative, I would miss out the mint and add tarragon instead. This will work nicely with broad beans, too, though I would leave out the raw element.

Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @NigelSlater