Even though I’ve lived in New Mexico for 27 years, I grew up in California and still refer to it as “home”. My siblings, their children, my publisher and many friends live in the Golden State, so I make the trip at least once a year.

I drive. It takes two days, but as I always plan on bringing back a trunk full of goodies, it’s entirely worthwhile. My brother’s olive oil, my sister-in-law’s jams, a friend’s blackberry preserves, almonds, walnuts, pistachios and fat medjool dates from my hometown farmers’ market … If it’s winter, I’ll have interesting citrus fruits, such as yuzu and bergamot oranges. If it’s summer, stone fruit will be tucked safely in a cooler.

When I first moved to New Mexico, Californian friends would bring egg cartons with ripe figs nestled in each cup, and suitcases full of quince: two more foods that mean California to me. It’s been years since that’s happened and I no longer mind, which tells me that maybe New Mexico has become my home for real. The moment I cross from Arizona, I start to feel a tingle of pleasure. There are still six hours of driving ahead, but I’m back in the land of mesas and red cliffs and, mostly, chilli. It’s what I long for, as hungrily and intensely as anything I can imagine,: a blue corn enchilada smothered with red chilli sauce – rich, smooth and hot.

When I get to Grants, a small town largely defined by uranium mining, I leave the freeway and drive down the main street in search of the Uranium Cafe, a great old place now called Nana’s Home Cooking. I sit at the counter and order a stacked (not folded) enchilada with red chilli. “Is that all?” the waitress asks. “No beans? No rice? No posole? No fried egg on top?”

Sometimes I do go for the whole plate, but mostly it’s just the enchilada and Nana’s chilli that I want. Good chilli is rich, the colour of red bricks, and a little sweet. Its flavour is rounded, perfect with the nuttiness of tortillas made with blue corn. The cheese is not heavy and gloopy, but cooling. Usually it’s cheddar, but it could be a goat’s cheese or another good melting cheese. While others might prefer fresh green chilli, the red has absorbed all that extra sunshine as it dries in the fields. To me, it is the quintessential taste of New Mexico.

As I wait, I have a glass of water, and gradually stop vibrating from the road. My plate arrives and the flavours meet in my mouth in a big way. They’re so good. I exhale deeply. I’m back. Just as the peaches in California have their familiar magic, this native food does too. It tells me where I am, where home is now. California might always be a home to me, but it will never be the land of blue corn and red chilli.

Stacked blue corn tortillas with red chilli sauce

You can use other corn tortillas, but blue corn tortillas have a rich, nutty flavour that is perfect with the sweet heat of the red chilli. I make my stack with two tortillas, but you can use three or four with extra cheese. This recipe makes enough for 4 enchiladas. Any left over will keep in the fridge for several days. Rice, beans or posole, and a fried egg are standard accompaniments.

Serves 2
Oil, for frying
4 blue corn tortillas
4 tsp onion, minced
200g mild cheddar or monterey jack, grated

For the sauce
1 tbsp oil
1 small onion, very finely diced
1 plump garlic clove, minced
40g red chilli powder
500ml water, or chicken or beef stock
½ tsp dried oregano
½ tsp salt
A few drops vinegar (optional)

1 First, make the sauce. Warm the oil in a small, heavy saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook for a minute. Add the garlic and cook for another minute, then stir in the chilli. Add the water in 2 or 3 portions, followed by the oregano and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the flavours aren’t well integrated, add a few drops of vinegar and taste again.

2 Preheat the grill. Pour about 1cm of oil into a pan large enough to hold a tortilla. When the oil is simmering, put a tortilla in it for few seconds, just long enough to soften; it should not go crisp. Repeat with the other tortillas.

3 Lay a tortilla on a heatproof plate. Cover it with ¼ of the onion, ¼ of the chilli sauce and ¼ of the cheese. Add a second tortilla and repeat. Do the same on a second plate.

4 Grill the enchiladas until the cheese melts and serve immediately.

Deborah Madison is a cookbook author and an expert on vegetarian cooking.